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Alpine///M
03-22-2010, 10:51 AM
Hey guys,

So not too long ago I bought new Brembo replacement rotors, Hawk pad, sensors, and the ATC Super blue racing brake fluid from Turner Motorsports. Dropped the car off at a mechanic's shop that i've been going to for years for him to do the install. He later called and said that he would have to take it to another local shop to do the bleeding of the system since it needed a specific machine to do so. Does this sound right to any of you?? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and studied at UTI, and even worked at Andial Porsche service (which is now gone, but was in front of what is now GMG racing.) and I have seen little gadgets to help bleed the system for faster results, but not because the ///M needed it. I ask this question because i'm getting a spongy feeling and a vibration. I want to go ahead and bleed the system, but was wondering if the braking system on my 97 M3 Sedan is as tempermental as the cooling system is. One air bubble in system can make your car overheat........any bit of information would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I was told by the fella's at Turner Motorsports that slotted, drilled and or slotted/drilled rotors were overkill and all looks for a street driven car with no real intentions to auto cross it. The bit of info they post on the website describing how a larger disk rotor works as a heat bank and thus slotting it or drilling holes in it would reduce the amount of mass heat can dissapate on thus reducing braking power makes a ton of sense. What do you guys think? I know it looks cool, but if it hurts my stopping distances, what is the point. :drive2: Help!

Alpine///M
03-23-2010, 09:49 AM
So I just called both Turner Motorsports and UUC Motorwerks to ask the pro's about this brake bleeding question. I don't know if any of you have ever dealt with either company, but the times I have, it seems as if they are always giving conflicting information and or advice. I guess that's what happens when they are competitors out on the track circuit. One thing seems to work for one and the other goes a completely different route.

Anyhow, so Turner Motorsports said I would need a pressure bleeder for it to be bled properly (always, but it seems a bit overkill, but great if you have the machinery) whilst UUC Motorwerks suggested that it isn't as critical once it has been done when the system had been cracked to install the new parts. Once all of the parts (stainless brake lines, new fluid) have been installed, it isn't necessary to keep having to use a pressure bleeder if you don't have one. A simple old fashioned gravity bleed will do. UUC did give me a bit of a warning though, NEVER PUMP THE BRAKES WHILE BLEEDING THE SYSTEM ON A BMW!!!!!! He said it would ruin the seals in our master cylinders. They would get backed up and blow a seal.

Just a bit of wisdom and a heads up for the do it yourselfer out there lurking the MFest forums! :lurk:

K3VIN
03-23-2010, 11:43 AM
Yeah man, I also was told from UUC that a gravity bleed is all you need to do. They said to just leave it there for awhile and then refill and you would be good to go. So I assume you got everything taken care of? Keep me posted cause I have not done this myself but plan to. :thumbsup:

:lurk:

LWRNCE
03-23-2010, 11:52 AM
If a shop doesn't know how to bleed your brakes you should not be going to them lol.

UUC is right or you can also use a pressure bleeder.